A website blog about papercraft and scale paper model. Model making using paper or card board. Loki Helmet Papercraft. Thursday, 12 July Rauf Raphanus Mask and Costume. E-mail · Print. Download. Loki Helmet Papercraft. Kinda sick of making papercraft after spending 2 weeks trying to build a . some times I just google ‘papercraft loki helmet’ and look up all the.
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Honestly even the word amateur seems a bit too kind as this was my first real go at doing anything like this using these materials. So, my daughter Lily decided earlier this year that she wanted to be Loki for Halloween. I am a huge cosplay fan and have always wanted to try my hand at making something that looked cool out of foam and Worbla.
After a bit of back and forth with my wife about how overboard we were willing to go with it, we set about making plans. We knew from the outset that this was a pretty big job what with all the armor and sewing and everything, so we set about doing our homework. In the end, my wife wound up making the majority of the leather and cloth bits while my main focus was on the armor and helmet. I started with the helmet. After printing everything out on some heavy card stock paeprcraft spending a few hours cutting and taping pieces together, I had the basic horn shapes.
It was tempting to just make some basic horns paprecraft go from there, but the way the horns curve is pretty distinctive and I wanted to replicate it as much as possible. Hopefully that makes some sense. So, now that I knew the rough size and shape that the horns needed to be, it was time to make them.
Loki Cosplay – Halloween 2015
Everywhere that I found online suggests using the pink type of foam, but all I could find at my local hardware store was blue. I am not sure if there is any difference between the two colors — but the blue foam worked just fine. Luckily one of the employees helped me chop it up right there in the store so that it would fit into the trunk of my car.
When I got home I spent a good deal of time sitting in the floor watching The X-Files and practicing carving on a spare piece of foam to get the hang of it.
Keep in mind that you can sand this foam — so make your cuts close to where you want them and use sandpaper or a rasp or something to fine tune. Since the horns are thicker than the 1 inch foam that I bought, I had to use some hot glue to glue a couple pieces of foam together to get the material thick enough.
I wish that I had thought about this beforehand though, because when you are cutting and sanding the foam into shape, hot glue dries pretty hard and is terrible to try to get through with sandpaper or a knife. In retrospect, I probably should have just gotten some 2 inch thick foam and left the glue gun in the closet.
So, once I had the basic outline of the horn shapes cut out and glued up, I set about trying to shape them into actual horns. Doing it all by hand and getting the two horns to match up identically was MUCH more difficult than I anticipated.
Basically, you have to go back and forth between the two horns doing a bit of work, then looking at the other horn and replicating the work you just did.
I spent hslmet entire day in my friends garage sanding one horn, comparing, sanding the other horn, comparing, etc.
So, after a ton more shaping, sanding, cutting, etc. After a ton of looking around online at Lady Loki costumes, I decided on a diadem style of headpiece rather than a full helmet and spent a few hours going back and forth on sketches. When I finally had the basic shape figured out, I used a bit of craft foam and cut out the template. I wanted all of the additional shapes in the design to be lokki to give it a bit more detail and hwlmetso those shapes were also cut out of an additional piece of foam and then superglued to the template.
That piece got set aside with the horns and I moved on to the next bits: Loki has a lot of different pieces of armor depending on what you are using as source material.
To save time, we went The Avengers route honestly just because it seemed to have less pieces than most of the others. To start, I had to size the bracer pieces to my daughter.
We covered her arm in seran wrap and duct tape on which a basic paprcraft outline was drawn. After cutting it off, I used the template, drew palercraft sketches to make a more detailed template that hellmet as closely as my limited skills and timeline could manage the screenshots from the movie, then appercraft it and cut the pieces out of craft foam.
The raised bumps were made using some of those little plastic jewels that you can find at hobby stores — everything else is just foam and superglue. Once I had one done, I just flipped the template over on another piece of foam, transferred, and made a mirror copy.
Just foam, superglue, and more plastic jewels. The shoulder piece was tricky. To begin with, it is super detailed. It is also a really odd shape.
The whole thing was transferred over to craft foam, cut out, and glued together. Then I used the same template to cut out and glue all of the additional pieces that looked like they were supposed to have depth. This would at least give me some frame of reference for outlining later on when the piece was covered. Now that I had all of the armor pieces completed in foam, it was time to start covering them in Worbla.
For those who are unaware, Worbla is a thermoplastic material. When heated it becomes pliable and when it cools back down it is basically plastic. It comes in sheets of various sizes and can be purchased online at many different places.
I was lucky enough that one of the comic book shops in the area carries it — so I popped over and picked up a large sheet. Worbla is pretty easy to cut with a decent pair of scissors, but it is easier if you heat it first.
Just try to work quickly because it cools off pretty fast. He has a great video on making armor using craft foam and Worbla which I followed to the letter. In truth, pretty much this entire costume was planned around what this dude had to say because of his phenomenal results making a much more impressive Loki costume for his own child.
Anywho… the process of covering was largely the same for most of the pieces of armor. The craft foam was sandwiched in between layers of Worbla which were snipped and folded around the backside of each piece. I used a combination of clay sculpting tools and the tools from an old iPhone repair kit to get into the creases and edges to make the details as sharp as I could manage. The shoulder piece was the trickiest part — primarily because I strayed from the formula.
You see, depending on whose cosplay you look at, or which screencap you see online of the actual armor piece, they all seem to be slightly different. Some of them seem like the hair on the lion is kind of flat and some of them have it looking super raised. Without a physical piece to actually compare to, I just sorta winged it. Basically for the hair, I used the v-cuts that I had previously made and made indentations in the Worbla to serve as a guide.
Then I cut loads of little pieces of Worbla, heated them up and formed them together like clay and attached them as closely as I could manage over my guidelines. I think the end result looks cool, but to be honest it is not anywhere near what the film version has it looking like.
Also, because of the height of the hair on that lion, it threw off the look from the front — so the entire shoulder guard piece wound up getting switched to the other shoulder just so that you could see something besides the backside of a piece of hair.
Seriously, this was taken with a Galaxy S5. Shoulda got out the camera. Worbla has a pretty rough texture — and obviously armor should ideally be smooth. So, after all the foam pieces were covered, detailed, and formed, everything was coated in about 5 layers of wood glue. Once the layers were dry, I noticed that they were still pretty rough. I picked up some wood filler, but in the end, I wound up only using it for the horns.
I painted all of the armor pieces with several layers of gesso on top of the wood glue and went about sanding the gesso down — but alas, smooth armor was not meant to be. After priming and painting, it dawned on me that I had no clue how to attach the bracers to her.
Secondly, I used eyelets that were too large for the eyelet pliers that I had. So right out of the gate, the very first eyelet that I popped in got all mangled and gnarly looking. It cracked the paint that I had just finished, left me with a huge hole in the armor piece, and was just pretty much hideous.
So what did I do? The absolute most logical thing ever. On the same bracer. I would just have to do my best to make the two bracers match. So I dremeled out all the holes and simply superglued in the other eyelets.
Went back to the headpiece. I decided I wanted to add a gem or something in the center of the crown — something to add a bit of visual interest. I have never made gems before, and of course it would have been easier to have just purchased some cheap gems from the store — but where is the fun in that?
I ran out to the hobby shop and picked up some clear resin and a large candy mold sheet that was all different gem sizes and shapes. I used a bit of vaseline in the mold to act as a release and set about mixing up the resin.
Added 3 drops of green food coloring to the mix and poured the resin into the mold. In retrospect, I should have gotten the quick cure stuff cause the stuff I bought had a 24 hour cure time. Luckily, everything worked out. I glued some tin foil on the back of the gem to help reflect the light through it. The horns are made papercraftt foam. Foam melts when you get it too hot.
To compensate, I lkki out the wood filler I had previously purchased and started applying coats.
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Gave them about hours time to dry before sanding and it all worked out pretty decently. Several coats of gesso and lots more sanding and it was time to attach them to the headpiece.
To do this, I screwed some drywall anchors into the base of the horns and drilled a couple of holes in the headpiece and simply screwed the horns in.
From the backside of the headpiece this left the heads of helmeh screws visible, but this would later be covered anyway. I only got about 4 coats of gesso added to the actual headpiece — and it shows.
Note for next time — start making papercraaft costume earlier.
Marvel – Loki Helmet Life Size Papercraft Free Download
After priming, several coats of paint were sprayed. Let me tell you something — if you have any scratches or imperfections, shiny paint sucks. Considering that none of the pieces of armor that I created were even remotely smooth, the roughness really shows up in the final pieces.