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Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot]justice99 and 7 guests. It is currently Mon Dec 31, 1: Mon Dec 31, 1: TV RGB mod thread. Tue Sep 19, 1: Well the parts came in and I done did the thing. The hardest part was finding some volts to stick in the blanking pin; it took me an cax2139s to realize 9 would be fine. Were it not for the convergence issues this could very well have been a religious experience. Tue Sep 19, 2: When you add another 75ohm termination resistor to a line that already has a ohm termination the total resistance is ohm.
I should probably add some installation pictures to that gallery. I just wired my sync from the rca jack to the y pin on the header that connects the IO board and the jungle board.
I figured that with the way the boards slot together, the fewer wires I could have dangling between the better. Tue Sep 19, 5: Just a quick thought on this one Then something like an 90ohm resistor termination on external RGB lines? I know I’ve been mistaken about the need for diodes before but this seems like maybe a good spot.
The diode should mean the OSD remains at it’s initial whatever. Diodes have around 0. Pretty sure our consoles are. I think the OSD is less. Tue Sep 19, Hi Guys, I pondered creating a new thread for this but thought it’d make more sense to post here.
Really great information out here. It’s mostly working but the blacks are grey. I was hoping some of you had some suggestions on what to try next. Below is a summary of how I wired things and the troubleshooting steps taken https: Based on previous comments and the similar pinout, this chips likely behaves very similarly to other CXA21xx jungle ICs https: However the proposed solution is to use 0.
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Panasonic Quintrix F Chassis: Remove the leg of each n capacitor OSD side of the pins, keep the leg that goes directly to the jungle in place these lifted legs are your main RGB in, centre switchand wire your OSD lines to the holes.
Remember to terminate your RGB lines console side with 75ohm resistors, I usually do it on the scart connector Many of the rear inputs are make or break connections, the TV will only allow sync or audio to pass through if there are plugs in the sockets. You can bypass this by using the luma channel on svideo for sync and bridging the svideo grounds, wire your audio to that AV channels inputs and cut the trace that connects left audio white to right red.
I have a bit of a soft spot for cube tvs, and even though this is flat screen I grabbed it to see what it could do. I was instantly impressed with the sound as cube TVs usually have poor audio.
When I removed the case I found out pretty fast why it sounded so good. An OSD hack produced a nice clear picture.
CXAS Datasheet, PDF – Alldatasheet
Tue Sep 19, 7: Wed Sep 20, Wed Sep 20, 3: Wed Sep 20, 4: Wed Sep 20, 1: Syntax, thanks so much for your detailed response, much appreciated. Anyway I have tried to draw a simple diagram of what I have done, I am assuming it is wrong: Initially I used a switch to wire all 4 jungle IC pins back to the board, but removed it later as a troubleshooting step.
As you can see my caps are 0. I just checked and my chassis has the same connector. Are these pins used for anything? Wed Sep 20, 5: Thu Sep 21, 4: Oh so should I take the rgb inputs off the micro prossesor and wire it straight to the rgb inputs to the and I should add see voltage to the blanking osd input what voltage should I start with and also I should terminate the rgb signals off the micro controller and should I isolate the blanking signal from the micro controller and use a switch to go from me controlling the osd when I set up rgb so I should isolate the micro controller from changing the rgb signals with a 6 way switchI need to add 75 oh resistors.
To ground with a and use 1 uf caps and make sure it doesn’t have any resistors on that lineI’m trying to fiquire where to take the rgb signal away fromand send it to what chip the jungle chip then bypass the micro controllerI hope I’m on the right track. Thu Sep 21, 5: On my rgb modded sony trinitron kvfs the color control and hue on the osd is disabled when I use rgb but the other controls work just fine like brightness and picture,you guys think it’s hardware or software as would like to re-enable them.
Thu Sep 21, Thu Sep 21, 1: Awesome,that will work just fine. For now I removed my 75 ohm resisters and replaced them with have ohm variable resistors on the rgb lines and that fixed my brightness issue,picture is better but adjusting the color would be the next best thing.
I meant put the pots in line on the RGB cxa2139e lol, not as terminations. They should stay at 75ohm In series will control color. I cant remember if before the clamping caps or after is best. You’ll only need 1k datasheey really it wont need much adjustment. Thu Sep 21, 2: So pins 14,15,16 I’m snipping at the legs of the capacitors coming into the osd and I’m hooking my rgb wires from my game console their to the osd input of pin dataheet then I’m I’m feeding power to the rgb vcc on pin 18 I should add somewhere around 1 volt up to 9 volts to get it to blank to rgb the circuit says it takes 9 volts on their what should I do about the black pin Page 35 of Previous topic Next topic.
CXA2139S Datasheet PDF – Sony Semiconductor
Can see it on page Pin 5 of IC is the 5V output. Cheering you got it working. What technique did you use to do the mod? Yeah I was totally wrong, you get So we have been connecting the console and OSD directly together, which causes all types of issues. Mark OZ was connecting 75 ohm termination resistors and the chassis already had ohm termination resistors.
When in parallel it was close enough to 75 that it shouldn’t of been a problem for the console but the OSD takes a huge hit from its Vpp being grounded so heavily. But the console is still to washed out and bright in this configuration also.
Even if you switch the original resistors on the OSD lines out for 75ohm the console is still too bright and black levels are all screwy, like the OSD is amping the console rgb feed. So I tried a proper OSD hack on these units and yep, black is as black as midnight. I’m pretty annoyed as it means I now have to reopen units and switch them to an OSD hack. But at the same time the picture is superb and no menu settings need to be changed between consoles.
You live you learn Did you wire directly to y on the Jungle? I did this for the first time last night because a Panasonic set would not take sync via svideo or component, and I found that the sync wire needed to be shielded as it was picking up a lot of interference. So the set will not allow signal via those inputs until a plug is actually in the socket. The OSD may be constantly feeding the lines tho which could be the cause of the ghosting.
I’ll try small diodes off the OSD clamping caps and maybe remove OSD terminations to restore it a bit and report back. Not crossing my fingers though. Well that is both some coincidence and very sucky. I wasn’t aware of that. I don’t have to deal with such inconveniences as the real world when writing software! Following your progress has made me understand why the mod of the BG-1S chassis was so much more successful.
So for a nominal 75R termination anything between 60R and 90R should actually work fine. Unless i’m misinformed there, of course. There is a noticeable difference in the picture. Thanks for the response man! I’ll try feeding the sync directly to the jungle IC. This set cx2a139s Jungle reminded me of a set, I swear I had done one before Looks like I removed the original.